How to use guns part 2

Guns part 2

Scout

"Buy, Rifles, Scout."

Most people dont follow this routine when they play CS. Instead, they often go for the $4700 AWP. Those who press 4, then 6 are blind to the power of the Scout. I'll list some reasons why the Scout is a considerable choice as a weapon.

» Cost - You can get it at under 3000 bucks, and sometimes within the second round of the game. Bullets are cheaper compared to the AWP bullets, which cost $125.

» Mobility - You can run fast with it. Ever hold an AWP while running? You move like a slug, and your accuracy decreases as well. With the Scout, you run much faster and its still pretty accurate at medium range.

» Power - The Scout isnt a one-hit kill like the AWP, but it does nail someone down within two shots. Suppose each shot takes 50. A tactic that would be useful is temporary camping. This may sound bad, but camp until half of your team and half of the other team is dead. Usually around this time, most of the enemies have 60 - 40 health left. What does this mean? This means the scout is like an AWP now. One shot kill. And you save money!

» Accuracy - The Scout isnt that accurate, but its not that inaccurate either. Its effective on maps where you can snipe the enemy, but not using the zoom feature. Zooming with the Scout isnt much of an advantage, since it doesn't kill in one hit, and it simply wastes time. I never zoom with it. You might miss, but since the scout reloads fast, you can quickly get another shot.

Enough praising the Scout. I'll get to the point: How do you use it? From my experience, I beleive that you should use the scout like an AWP and a shotgun. If you are good with the M3 Super90 shotgun, chances are you'll do well with the scout, since they are similar: two shot kills and you can still run fast with them.

How do you use it effectively? Be Smart. If you see a bunch of Ts or CTs running at you, don't try to run up and face them. Be a pansy and pick them off one by one. Higher ground tends to help, since the Scout can take someone out with one headshot. One tip everyone stresses is to STAY CALM. If you startle and jerk your mouse around your loyal Scout won't be of any help. For beginners, I would advise you to practice with the M3 first. When I use the Scout, I pretty much just use it like the shotgun. Get used to hit-and-run tactics, and you'll become a Scout master within a couple of rounds.

Some Other Advantages of the Scout:

» Backup fire - Help your teammates by taking someone down to 40-50 health and letting them finish your opponent off.

» Stealing frags - If youre a good sniper, follow your teammates and hang around a battle until people are reloading or are halfdead, then run out and finish them off.

» Silenced fire - Even though the Scout doesn't physically have a silencer, it still is quiet, especially when other people are blasting off their rifles and grenades. If you kill someone with a Scout and have sufficent cover, chances are they wouldn't even know where the bullet came from.

» Ammo - With the Scout you get 60 ammo, which is plenty to mess around with. You could shoot the chickens and the radio in Italy and still have ammo to kill people with. You also reload very quickly with the Scout.

Finally, remember this:

RESPECT THE SCOUT.

Happy Fragging!

SG-1 / G3

The G3/SG-1, which is for terrorists only, is the only support weapon in the game that can get kills consistently.

I have only had a little experience with the new G3/SG-1 , however, based on that and my extensive experience with the old G3, I can safely say that the new G3/SG-1 no longer has the weird 'phantom bullet' bug where some shots are inaccurate for no reason. The G3/SG-1 is the perfect gun for defending an area and slaughtering hordes of attacking or defending enemies in fire-fights. However, unless you have very good reactions, I do not recommend using this against an AWP. However, if you are up to it, there are two situations where this gun is most useful. One is when they are in the open, and cannot hide behind a box to reload, while you are tracking and shooting them. The second is when you are defending an area and are already zoomed in (and standing in a non 'instant aim' area, which is when you are in a spot where the enemy will be aiming immediately after strafing around a corner).

Now for the features of the G3. It takes 2-3 bullets to kill someone with this gun. The damage varies between that of a Scout and that of a DEagle. The accuracy when un-zoomed [and fired fully-auto] is (surprisingly) better than a spread of buck-shot, which, considering it's damage, makes it almost as good as a XM1014 when out of zoom. However, you will be walking very slowly, the same speed as an AWP user, so it isn't a good idea to rely on this, especially since the gun only has a rate of fire of 4 rounds/sec compared to something like 11 or so with the AK. The only real advantage of this is that you will be able to defend yourself without having to waste time pulling out your pistol if you are surprised from behind.
The accuracy of the gun (in full-auto and to a lesser extent, single shot) is affected by the level of zoom, so it is more accurate at x6 zoom than at x2.5 zoom.

The correct way to fire this gun is to take single aimed shots at the chest with small pauses in between. Patience is key with this gun, in many respects it is like a beefed up Scout. The tolerance for taking shots while moving is somewhat in between that of the Scout and the AWP. When firing you should try to be stationary (if possible) and nail the target with your first shot and then follow up with a second shot to finish him off. After making a kill, try to move into cover to prep a grenade or simply to vary your position and block fire from small arms and sniper rifles. Then pop out and repeat the process. Should you fail to hit an enemy with your first shot, get behind cover while they return fire, then go back and try again. Do not crouch in a fire-fight unless you are certain that there are no AWP users; it's not necessary as you get more than adequate accuracy with this gun while standing.

Some finer points on usage:
» Don't go fully auto at long range if you are alone, this will get you killed.

» Don't Reload unless you have less than 8 rounds. The roughly 4.5 second reload is quite long and leaves you far too vulnerable as a sniper.

» The USP is the ideal sidearm for this, it is accurate over long ranges on the move and has good damage dealing capabilities for the skilled player.

» Stay in the middle or back of your group in fire-fights, that way you will be able to concentrate better on getting kills.

» Unless you're running down a narrow corridor or the like, always travel with your G3 out and un-zoomed.

» Remember, by picking your ground you can pick your engagement range, try to get in an area where you have good cover and the enemy will need to expose themselves to attack you. This does not necessarily mean that they cannot take cover, merely that you will have breathing space and time to kill them.

» Leading is very important if you want to master this gun, with practice you can build up your reactions so that you will only require a short lead to aim effectively at a target.

» Remember, apart from the weight, this gun is basically a beefed up Scout, great for counter-sniping if you are skilled enough.

The G3 is THE decisive factor in big fire-fights. Forget the AWP, this gun can score one shot kills on injured opponents. It also has a much faster rate of fire, being able to snap off 5 fully auto shots or 2-3 single shots in the time the AWP takes to fire 1 round. Also, this gun is not bolt-action, so you do not zoom out when you fire.

Finally, like Kevlar, using the G3/SG-1 gives you a second chance should you make a slip-up, which cannot be said of missing your first shot with an AWP or Scout (or even M3 Super, for that matter!). Stay calm, and you will come out on top with the help of your trusty G3.

Para

The M249 fires 5.56mm rounds, the same as the M16/M4A1. Much like the M60 machine gun, the M249 is a support weapon, intended to be a base of fire for a squad of soldiers. It can provide suppressing fire to allow riflemen to advance safely, but it is accurate enough to engage individual targets. It's important to understand that the M249 uses the same ammunition as the M4A1, but its true advantage is its enormous magazine capacity and its psychological impact on enemy soldiers.

Counter-Strike's M249
When translated to a computer game, the M249 has lost some of its teeth. First of all, like most other CS weapons it does not kill in one or two shots (usually). Because of this, it is difficult to suppress enemy forces because they do not value their lives as they would in real life, and they also know that they can probably live long enough under fire from an M249 to deliver accurate rifle fire to their attacker. Unfortunately they're usually right, because the M249 lacks the accuracy to make most of its magazine hit the enemy, and its rate of fire is slow compared to the rifles in the game. The M4A1 and AK-47 can do more damage per second than the M249 can, but not for sustained periods of time - herein lies the key to using the M249 effectively.

SAW Strategy
To be honest, the M249 is almost completely ineffective in a one-on-one firefight. It does not have a high rate of fire, it has a good deal of recoil, and it doesn't do a whole lot of damage. If you're playing for kills, or you're a deathmatch moron, then steer clear of this weapon. If you want to provide covering fire to a squad of friendly soldiers, this weapon will prove most effective.

Suppresive fire
When you buy and load an M249 you've got about twice as much ammo as anyone else. You've got to get over your fear of running out of ammo and your habit of reloading after every 5 shots. Take every opportunity you can to fire into suspected enemy camping areas, or fire through walls/doors to hit enemy staging areas or probable routes of attack. You may not kill anyone, but you'll probably do at least a little damage to some of the enemies AND you will probably delay or even totally ruin any organized assault on your position.

Infantry on the Attack
In games where you're supposed to attack or get to some objective, stay near the back of the squad. In a firefight, you will provide a nearly endless stream of fire while your assault rifle-carrying friends and enemies will continually stop to reload. You will be a constant threat to all enemy forces, while allowing your allies to take cover behind you. This all sounds really heroic, like you're a God with a massive hammer of justice, but you're not. Even though you are a threat, and you will probably keep the enemies from being brave enough to run around in the open, you must rely on the accuracy of your riflemen to fire on specific targets for the kill.

Also, take the time to provide suppressive fire when applicable, but try to do it BEFORE your teammates enter an area or you risk shooting their helmets, totally throwing off their aim. Don't forget to do your job as a teammate though, follow them in afterwards!

Defensive positioning
The key to being an effective defender is positioning. You want to overlook a high traffic, high combat area so that you can rain down lead on enemy forces while not being noticed. You also, however, want to avoid extremely long-range and close-range firefights. In a long range fight the recoil from your M249 will prevent you from being effective, although short 2-3 bullet bursts can consistently hit their mark, compared to a rifle your rate of fire, burst length and damage per bullet is inferior. In a close range fight, enemies can quickly swarm you, and there usually isn't enough room for your teammates to join and cover you. CQB fighting is the SMG's domain as you'll quickly learn.

Another technique I've found to be effective is staying mobile, moving between defensive positions that your teammates occupy and providing that extra boost when they need it. Usually the enemy will be concentrating on your teammate, so you can lay down some suppressive fire for him, thus filling your role--support.

Conclusion
The M249 in Counter-Strike is an expensive gun, and most think it is too expensive to warrant purchasing. If you DO decide to buy one, don't pay for it with lone-wolf kills (there's hardly such a thing with this weapon), but rather with the winnings you get next round after your team has won thanks to your expert cover-fire.

Remember these key concepts:
» Stay in back, away from the main line of resistance or attack
» Fire on doors before your teammates enter a room, and join them after they've entered.
» Fire on suspected enemy positions at every opportunity.

M3 Shotgun
Each shell fired from the M3 releases 8 pellets, each doing 15 points of damage at close range (about 1 - 2 meters). The further the range, the wider the pellets will spread out, and the less damage they'll do. A single near-pointblank blast should kill an enemy instantly, unless he's wearing the Kevlar. If so he'd require two blasts to take down. I prefer the M3 instead of the M4 because it's a lot cheaper, and the latter have a tendency of running of shells without you even knowing it.
Essentially, the M3 was meant to be used in close-quarters combat, but it can still be effectively up to about 8 meters, which I consider to be mid-range. Sometimes I think the M3 is most effective at this distance. When you chance upon an enemy at this range, the first thing to remember is not to panic. Start strafing to either directions while fixing the crosshair at your opponent. Aim for the chest area. The moment the crosshair falls on the spot, blast him. The M3 Shotgun is a single-shot weapon, and the important thing is to get a proper aim. 2 to 3 shots should send him to oblivion, and occasionally you'd get a headshot. The whole thing should last only a few seconds.
The M3 is quite heavy and can slow you down your movement. Thus doing spectacular footwork ala Quake doesn't seem to be effective; it's more difficult to aim and enemies welding SMGs can take you down with a panicked burst of fire. Left-right strafing forces your enemy to track you with their crosshairs, which is difficult. Often the panic induced by the loss of 40 point health loss per second makes this even more true.
Facing an opponent up-close can be more difficult, as it relies more on luck. The crucial factor is to get the first shot. Be very alert in cramped spaces. Should the shot fail and both of you are still alive, track his movement and do not allow him to out-maneuver you. Point the crosshair at his face and just tap the fire button, and he'd be all over the floor.
At long-range (when your enemy is about the size of your cross-hair), the best the M3 can do is to scratch your opponent, usually doing less than 10 points of damage. Thus when you encounter a perched sniper in open space, your first priority would be to get to cover. That's if he noticed you. If so try firing at him constantly while you move out of his rifle's scope. Less experienced players may get intimidated and back off. Experienced ones will sit through the whole thing and attempt to get a good shot. If he doesn't notice you, you are in luck. Nothing's more fun than taking out a sniper unawares. Try to sneak up to his perch, and crouch if you have to climb a ladder. If you are lucky enough you can take out a bunch of them, given the speed the shotgun kills at close-range.
You'd probably noticed by now that my techniques are mainly meant for solo-confrontations. This is because I like to behave like a crazy lone mutt who loves to attack where's it's most unexpected. If you notice that your team is constantly engaging the other team at a specific space, try to rush and attack them from the back. Many maps allow this. Obvious examples are the sewers in Siege. Try to explore a bit. Once you get to the back of the enemy, take them out calmly, one by one. They probably wouldn't even notice. This is difficult if there are lots of players, which is when the techniques I mentioned above will come in handy. If you constantly find yourself killed by small groups of enemies, either stick to your team or form a similar mini-group.
Another thing I like to do is to attempt to clear out sniper nests on my own. This is especially important if you're playing Counter in Oilrig. I think the tower is one of the deciding factors of the whole game. Get your M3 or the G3 and rush your way to the tower. Go down the reddish hole, rush up the floors and get out through the entrance where it's just a quick run to the tower. Creep up the ladder and take them out. Take any available sniper rifles if you are holding the M3 and take out all the enemies waiting at the helicopter landing pad.
Finally, a few last notes. If you have spare cash it's a good idea to get either the DE or the Sig Pistol. Moving around with your pistol is as fast as moving with your knife, and is faster than moving with the shotgun. If you run out of shells in a crucial moment whip out your pistol and finish the job. The DE will also enable you to punch through some walls, and is slightly more effectively at long range. Reload when your shotgun has about 3 shells left, and do it in a safe place. People can hear you doing it meters away, and attempt to seek you out.